Clean Air, Quiet City, and the Ability to Take a Deep Breath

Last weekend, everyone in my office had the opportunity to go to Fujian Province as part of a group tour. We all looked forward to it if only because it was a chance to see somewhere that wasn't Wenzhou. I was interested in going only because it was my first time out of Zhejiang Province. We went to several places, but ultimately the tour was kind of boring mainly because we were always rushing from one place to another. The tour company tried to fit three or four days worth of activities into 38 hours. However it was still a chance to get out and see another part of China. I just wish it could have lasted a little longer or that we had not had to visit all of the places we went to.

The first place we went was of course the train station in Wenzhou. The new high-speed train will take you from Wenzhou to Fuzhou in just a few hours. The train ride was surprisingly nice and quiet. It was not crowded and provided a good opportunity to catch up on reading or sleep that was interrupted only by the occasional announcement that the next stop was some village or city. Almost as soon as we got out of the immediate area around Wenzhou, we noticed that the air pollution decreased significantly, even if the water still looked horrible. This was the first clue that anywhere other than Wenzhou might actually be clean. When we arrived in Fuzhou, the first thing we had to do was find our tour guides, a man whose English name was Aaron and a girl whose name I never knew, and figure out where the buses were. Once we got on the buses, the grand adventure began.

After stopping for lunch in Linglu, the first stop on the tour was Qingyun Mountain Scenery Area. It is 76 km outside of Fuzhou near the town of Linglu in Yongtai county. The introductory sign was about the only legible English-language sign in the whole park. All of the other "bi-lingual" signs had such poor translation, grammar, and spelling as to make them virtually illegible. These signs became a source of great amusement for us four native English speakers on the trip. However, that being said, there were many wonderful scenic spots at this park. The four laowai on the trip (me + 3 others) were constantly climbing over rocks and stopping to take a look at some interesting piece of scenery to the point that the rest of the group got somewhat ahead of us and the guide, Aaron, was sent back to find us. He stayed with us for the rest of our climb up up the mountain because it might look bad if the four laowai got lost.

Cuvay, legislatu e, fear old?

Top Left: One of many smaller waterfalls at the park. Top Right: The big waterfall at the end of the path up the mountain. Bottom: A small bridge across a small waterfall.

One thing that I will always remember about this park (other than the funny signs) is how clear, clean, and amazingly blue the water was. There is only one other place I have ever been where I have seen water of this color and that was in the Caribbean Ocean off the coast of Belize. I have never seen it in a mountain stream or river.

After wandering around for the better part of three hours, we went to the second stop on our journey--a wonderful hot spring hotel. This was the most relaxing part of our entire trip. Unfortunately, we were only able to spend a couple of hours there. I could have spent the whole day just going from mineral bath to tea soak to whirlpool and back. This hotel is very expensive to stay in. The cheap room will run about 1300 yuan per night, but people can go there just for the baths as we did. Now, for those who are thinking this sounds cool, It took us two hours by bus to get to the town of Linglu from Fuzhou. Not only that, but we could not drive the bus right up to the hotel because the road is only wide enough for cars, not busses, to pass so traffic jams are common. We ended up having to walk with all of our stuff the last 2.5 km or so from Linglu to the hotel.

After spending a couple of hours soaking in warm water, we went to dinner at the same place we ate lunch in Linglu. Once again we had to walk it. Not so fun after relaxing for a couple of hours in warm water, but the food was good and we got to eat out under what would have been stars if not for the rain clouds. After a good dinner, we got back on the bus for the two hour trip back to Fuzhou and our hotel. By the time we got to our hotel, almost everyone on the trip was ready to crash, but the four of us who were not Chinese decided to wander around for a while and see the city at night. 

 

Looking out across the river from out hotel at a really expensive shopping place.

One of the bigger bridges in the city.

Night scene.

One of the first things we noticed about the city was how quiet it seemed at night. In Wenzhou a street like the one above would be filled with street carts and vendors. Cars would be moving along to the ever-present sound of horns and people would still be out and about. In Fuzhou, the scene is much quieter and the streets are much cleaner. Even during the day there are few street carts and the drivers are infinitely more polite than in Wenzhou. It was a nice contrast from the bustle of daily life in the city of Wenzhou. After wandering around for a bit and visiting the American embassy (aka McDonalds), we all headed back to our hotel for good night's rest.

To be continued...